Best of Boston

Frenchie food is all the rage again, folks, so here’s a primer for restaurateurs mulling a Gallic dalliance. Start with a cellar full of undersung Rhônes and Burgundies, plus Bordeaux with a little age. You’ll want sophisticated riffs on Parisian pastry-craft—a raspberry-rose tart with lemony sablés Bretons should do. Kind service. A comfy dining room. Oh, yeah…and gently modernized masterpieces like duck confit with brilliant-bright swooshes of rhubarb purée. Come to think of it, that sounds exactly like the Franco-magic you’ll find at Chris Coombs’s Deuxave.